Tuesday, March 25, 2008

4.1 MET: Mişr! Mişr! Mişr!

My first night in Cairo was also when the final match of 2008 African Cup of Nations took place between Egypt and Cameroon. After the only but decisive goal scored by the Egyptian soccer team, the city started to boil. People were congregating on the streets around the once fashionable Midan Talaat Harb, where I lived, and the famous Midan Tahrir nearby, or Liberation Square.



Car horns mingled steadily with excited singing, chanting, and cheering. Black-and-red national flags filled the night sky accompanied by colorful confetti. Midan Tahrir was soon crowed with overjoyed Cairenes.



Fireworks and fire shows rekindled Cairo’s warm and pleasant winter night. Cars and buses passed by slowly, many of which came from a distance to join the celebration in Central Cairo. Passengers with their upper bodies outside the vehicle windows, echoed their countrymen on the street with their own roar of ecstasy and national pride.



The thrill was contagious. I couldn’t get by without being noticed. A few young Cairenes asked me where I was from, to which I responded “China”. They suddenly showed great interest and admiration and pulled me in to the big dancing circle. I grabbed a big Egyptian flag and joined the cheering crowd. I waved the flag and yelled “Mişr! Mişr! Mişr!”, Arabic for Egypt, which was only reverberated by the multitude. Soon, someone started to shout “China! China! China!”, and everyone followed. It was really a surreal experience for me, a Chinese tourist waving an Egyptian flag, dancing in the middle of Liberation Square with the locals who were shouting along “China”!



With such a wild welcome, I started my four-week vacation in the Middle East.

Monday, March 24, 2008

The Taiwan and Tibet Issue

When your 19-year-old one day comes up to you and says, “You are not my real dad”, or your estranged biological son decides one morning that he wants nothing to do with you because of what you did or what you didn’t do, what would you do?

It’s not uncommon, especially in the Western civilization in which the will and value of an individual is often placed above the common good of the group he belongs to, that an offspring decides to sever its family tie. The cause could be parents being abusive, negligent, distant, or the child being rebellious, emotional, immature, or simply led astray. The parents could try to reach out and make up for what’s missing, if any, but the run-away kid should make the final decision, as long as he or she is legally able, but, unfortunately, not necessarily mature and responsible enough at the same time.

The answer to Taiwan’s and Tibet’s decades-long quest for independence doesn’t lie in history but the present. The decision belongs to the majority of the native inhabitants, however “majority” is defined by international standard, simple or three quarters. When it happens, the decision should be respected.

However, in the global village today, there is more at stake than a sometimes empty title of democracy or independence.

The Mainland-China-friendly Ma Ying-jeou, of Nationalist Party, won a landslide victory in the recent presidential election in Taiwan defeating, by the largest margin in the island’s history, the incumbent Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) which has fiercely sought the island’s formal independence and return to the UN during its 8 reigning years, at the expense of sluggish economy and the declining living standard.

When I visited in Taiwan in 2003, I was shocked to discover that in Taipei’s subway, public announcements were in two languages (English and Mandarin Chinese) and two local dialects. On today’s flat earth where globalization is the inevitable future, Taiwan under the leadership of DPP, was stepping backwards and localizing and isolating its culture to return to its aboriginal form. In 2007 when people around the world were eager to learn Chinese, buy shirts and caps bearing Chinese characters, or even to tattoo them on their skin, DPP started the process of desinicization. One of the mandates was to remove the word “China” from the names of all Taiwanese companies.

Last Saturday, the people of Taiwan stamped an “F” on DPP’s report card for its priority on a quixotic quest for nominal independence over providing milk and bread to the ordinary people. How would the people of Tibet vote when they ponder over the harsh economical realty of an independent Tibet without any vital subsidies from Beijing? By the by, Tibetan economy is an oxymoron. After 5 years of imported over-glorified democracy, the daily life of an average Iraqi seems just as bad as before the war, if not worse. What does democracy and sovereignty mean when you are 肚子扁扁? (a popular political vernacular in Taiwan meaning “empty stomached”, which cleverly rhymes with the name of the lame duck DPP president who has caused the widespread problem.)

But patriots should never sell out sovereignty, right? Just ask the nations who can’t erase their borders fast enough or shred their banknotes quickly enough to join the exclusive country club called the European Union.

What if the country club is run by a mad man? For some dark hours in the modern Chinese history, especially in the so-called Cultural Revolution, things got out of hands. I saw this in a Tibetan temple.



But it’s a very different time now. Chinese government like any other in the world is not perfect. It is vigorously improving itself. For the last 30 years, it has continuously placed economical growth and prosperity of its people above all other objectives, just as the new Taiwan president-elect promised to do in his own term. How is China doing nowadays as a result? It’s not a trick question.

What if the regime is still run by a tyrant? The answer lies quietly in a fortress called Masada in the Judean desert.



The story of rebelling Jews, commonly referred to as Sicarii zealots, chose mass suicide over surrendering to the ruling Romans didn’t survive as a heroic legend, but as a shame (until reevaluated by the Zionists to support the ideology of the modern State of Israel). The fact that it was only found in the writings of Josephus who, ironically, escaped a similar mass suicide and surrendered to the Romans, indicated that the Jewish people disapproved the act. Most modern historians concur that the appropriately labeled zealots defending Masada should have negotiated with the Romans, who in fact were surprisingly tolerant, contrary to popular belief (of course, before the great Christian Emperor came along). Violence has never been the answer. The recent turmoil in Tibetan areas will not become anything but another embarrassment in history.

The Taiwan and Tibet issue may be an issue today, but as the globalization, economic development, and democratic improvement progress, the political and economical borders in the region will be too faint to notice. The hot spots will become non issues. And that is probably the best solution.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

4.1 MET: Amsterdam & Its Museums

I had a 9-hour layover in Amsterdam. The beautiful buildings of Venice of the North is somehow unremarkable and indistinguishable from other northern European cities. The calm and hugging canals, with an air of Germanic seriousness, are not as intimate as those in Venice. It was still a very pleasant walk along Damrak to explore the historical city center.

















However, the highlights of the day are surely the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum.





Under construction until 2010, the Rijksmuseum, nevertheless, still has its best on display: masterpieces from the Golden Age painters Pieter de Hooch, Jan Vermeer, and of course, Rembrandt. Looking at paintings in the textbook and seeing the real frames are two different things. Unlike the overwhelmingly colossal size done by Jacque-Louis David, the Dutch canvases call for close examinations.

The serene scenes of leisurely and well-to-do Bourgeois families presented by de Hooch, as in The Linen Closet, show an orderly urban life style and also set an equally orderly moral tone, a philosophy possibly picked up by the Pre-Raphaelites 200 years later. The carefully arranged signature key-hole perspective invites your imagination to travel beyond the canvas. The exquisite and smooth brush strokes remind me of the clean licked-surface style of the great Ingré.



Another fine example is Mother's Duty.



Vermeer’s maids are seemingly ordinary, themes mundane, and composition simple. But historians argue there are full of religious connotations (possibly the Calvinistic emphasis on daily labor). There are often windows in his paintings, indicating the source of light, with which the painter masterfully rendered the imagery with splendid delicacy and elegance. The Milkmaid on display is truly a tour de force.



I am not familiar with Rembrandt, synonymous to (probably) the greatest painter. With so much hype, I finally got to look at the originals. He is truly a master of drama. The employment of light and stark contrast reminds me of the dramatic compositions by Caravaggio. The limelight is not on (possibly) Prophetess Anna, rather on her book upon which the audience’s center of attention is immediately drawn. Her face, usually the focal point of any portrait, turns sideways, hides in the shade, and remains sketchy at best.



Also seen in Jeremiah Lamenting the Destruction of Jerusalem, the prophet sits inside a cave near the burning city, but the mysterious light from outside the canvas drenches him in golden illumination.



Rembrandt also invented a technique: using the other end of a paintbrush, the tapered wooden end, to scratch the paint. On some of his famous self portraits, I saw this technique in use on the hair area.



On the northwest corner of the beautiful Museumplein, a short 5 minute walk from Rijksmuseum, is Van Gogh Museum, a glassy modern building dedicated to the post impressionist whose significance still confuses me. What is not confusing is that this guy was really a quick learner and good at the fundamentals. On his first ambitious attempt at serious painting, The Potato Eaters, the figures are distorted, light and color depressed, rigid and wood-cut like strokes confined in color blocks. I wasn’t sure whether the artistic disfiguration was conscious. The answer lies in the museum. Van Gogh started learning painting at the age of 27, ten years before he died. He painted The Potato Eaters after 5 years of earnest learning. I saw one of his early portrait studies in the collections. His mastery of form, shape, and proportion is superb. On one of his letters to his brother Theo, he explained his idea of using layers of thick and daring colors on a rice field to express different feelings. So I got my answer.



However, if I had 10 million dollars, I would still prefer Renoir's Theater Box to his Sunflowers.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

4.1 MET: The Power of Religion

Jews wailing before the Western Wall (Jerusalem)



A Muslim performing Salaah quietly at noon in Küçük Aya Sofya Camii (Istanbul)



Filipino pilgrims carrying a cross and retracing the steps of a great man along Via Dolorosa (Jerusalem)



A Tibetan Buddhist prostrating herself outside Jokhang Temple (Lhasa)



As the cliché goes: Great power comes with great responsibility. Throughout history, more people have died in the names of Elohim, Yahweh, God, Lord, Allah. etc. It’s never too late to step back and think about something any religion would teach us: the sanctity of life.

4.1 MET: Random Thoughts

I bought a statuette of Anubis which is the jackal-headed god associated with mummification and the afterlife in Egyptian mythology. With its characteristic extending right arm, the statuette made packaging difficult. After a few trials, it occurred to me: I could mummify it. With layers of paper wrapping, the deity, in this reversal of roles, was ready to go (Aswan, Egypt).



After Anubis safely arrived in the US, I, by the power vested in me by the great State of California, brought the god of the dead back to life.



Many archaeologists might have overlooked the true reason for the fall of Masada: King Herod might have liked the stairs, but the Zealots forgot to destroy them before the Romans came (Masada, Israel).



I exclaimed: “Ecce Auto” (Ecce Homo, Jerusalem).



Me’raj (ascension) might have needed some extra help: a ladder, a doorway and a skylight (Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem).



I went to Hell on 3:15PM on February 24th, 2008, and stayed there for about 12 minutes, and left. It was really peaceful and quiet. The Jewish Hell in the Old Testament is called gehinnom (גהינום) which was also mentioned in the New Testament and the Qur’an (where it’s called Jahannam, جهنم). Gehinnom, or Gei Hinnom, is a valley south of the Zion Gate stretching from Mount Zion to Kidron Valley (Jerusalem, Israel).



Prior to visiting Hell, I went to the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where the Last Judgment is held. Hell is a pleasant 10 minute walk from here (Jerusalem, Israel).



People always slur that Jews are cheap. Over the years, I found that groundless and offensive. Unfortunately, I did stumble upon a piece of historical evidence to partially substantiate the aspersion. The tomb of the great Oskar Schindler is so depressingly unremarkable it took me 20 minutes to finally find it among other beautifully ornamented mausolea of rich Jews and Arabs (Jerusalem, Israel).



The famous Roman toilets are actually surprisingly comfortable. It’s not big enough to cover the entire posterior, but it definitely allows sufficient and efficient mass transfer (Ephesus, Turkey).



It’s okay to take a business trip, but when the trip lasts over 10 years, do expect some drastic changes at home. The great King Agamemnon, after sacking Troy, was murdered here in the palace by his wife Clytaemnestra and her lover Aegisthus (Mycenae, Greece).



When you own the world, you don’t need God. Alexander the Great asked for Oracle’s blessing, but the priestess asked him to come back the next day. The young king of Macedon pulled the priestess by the hair and dragged her all the way out of the temple until she uttered, “You are unbeatable”, to which Alexander replied: “You damned right” (Temple of Apollo, Delphi, Greece).



A famous Chinese idiom goes: 温饱思淫欲, which means after one can eat well and stay warm, he will be thinking of carnal desire. The old oriental saying is actually materialized in the red light district of Amsterdam, conveniently located next to Chinatown.

4.1 MET Blogs

I took a trip to Egypt, Israel, Turkey, and Greece, with a short stop in Amsterdam from February 8 to March 9. I will try to write a few postings documenting the things I saw and people I met along the way. MET stands for the Middle East Trip, and 4.1 means four countries plus one city. The itinerary looks like:

Amsterdam
Egypt: Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Taba
Israel: Jerusalem, Masada, Ein Gedi, Tel Aviv, Bethlehem
Turkey: Istanbul, Ephesus
Greece: Crete, Olympia, Corinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, Epidavros, Athens, Delphi

Free Will & The Soup Nazi

A typical Christian apologia to the question “Why evil exists” is to allow free will. People are free to choose good or evil, God or the devil. However, the verdict is already in. If you choose not to believe in God or follow Him, you will burn in hell for eternity. Is that really free will?

Isn’t there another similar strict code of behaviors somewhere? It goes something like this:

Thou shall not be loud or annoying in His shop
Thou shall not take forever on the order
Thou shall not make small talk with Him
Thou shall not stand around idly (rather, place the order and step to the left to receive)
Thou shall not embellish on the order
Thou shall not make any extraneous comments
Thou shall not ask any questions
Thou shall not make any compliments

Otherwise: “NO SOUP FOR YOU”!